Chenancou and Wine

Day 3 (May 23)

Hooray Jetlag.

*note HEAVY sarcasm

As you may be able to surmise (due to the fact that the first sentence of this entry is laden with copious…yes, I mean copious…amounts of sarcasm)…today was a LONG day. Very little sleep + being in charge of communication + navigation duty + super crowded tour site that I have already seen + going to see the site again in a week+ little amount of breakfast + not getting enough food for lunch = very crabby and difficult Hannah. Not fun.

So, it starts of pleasant, I ordered a carafe of coffee and we ate some of the goat cheese that we picked up at the store (along with a roll Mom snatched from dinner the evening before) and an apple (again bought at the store). Next off to.

Chenonceau is  a Chateau in the Loire Valley, thought to be one of the lovliest in the Loire Valley due to the location of it. It was originally constructed as a “simple” manor, but was expanded into a pleasure chateau, with re Chenonceau naissance gardens, and a hallway stretching over the Cher river. During the first World War the Chateau was used as a hospital for wounded soldiers.  The placement of the chateau during the first World War was exceptionally interesting, for half of the chateau was in occupied territory, while the other half was located in the “free zone.”  The kitchen is really interesting as well, for it is located directly above the Cher River, and has an area where boats may steer directly under the kitchen and deliver food. You are still able to see the levers and pulleys that were used to access the delivery boats. 

There are still numerous original copper pots and pans in addition to the origional “appliances” in the kitchen!

One thing that never ceases to amaze me is how long the French have used these Chateaux. Many of them were used as either private property or fortresses or barracks or hospitals up until the second World War.  It is not uncommon to find an ancient Chateau with origins in the 12^th Century to be used as lodging or military bases during the World Wars. Not to mention, some of the furniture has held up remarkably throught 900 years of usage!  I was sitting on chairs older than our country!  The manor part of the Chateau is rather intricate as well.  It bears the emblem of Francois I, Henry II and Catherine de Medici. 

Henry II had a mistress, to whom he gave the chateau after the previous owner, Francis I's death. His mistress, Diane de Poitiers, remained the owner of the Chateau from 1555-1559 (the year of Henry II's Death). Catherine de Medici then had Diane de Poitiers expelled and traded it for Chateau Chaumont.  Catherine de Medici had a particular love of the Chateau and invested a great amount of her furtune in the Chateau and it's construction.

*did NOT take this pic...there was construction on the chateau

Day 2 Villandry

Day 2 Friday May 22

SLEEP! GLORIOUS GLORIOUS SLEEP!  So, we went to bed at about 1 at the latest (1 in France, so about 6 O clock PM  Eastern Standard Time) after some e-mails and facebooking to let people know that we arrived, and we woke at about 11. By “we” I meant Mom and Dad…and I woke up…grumbled…turned over and slept until 12. Our good ‘Ole Buddies, “The Michelin Man” and Garmin guided us to a charming little place known as “Auberge de Port Vallière.” Which is a nice little restaurant.  Was a tad expensive, due to the fact that it was pretty much on the “carte” menu system (an entry plate, a main dish, and dessert) and the individual items were only about 3 Euros less… one feels inclined to order and eat more. BUT! There was a menu of the day. When I asked (I being the only who could ask and semi understand what was being said) understood about 3 things : Smoked Salmon, Veal, and then Caramelized apples. And I was like…Oh! I understand those things! (Hopefully this was not going to be some sort of pate of smoked salmon and then veal sausage and crème brulée with caramelized apples…) I took my chances and in a split second decided: Smoked salmon= WIN WIN WIN!, Veal=Win (especially for Dad), and Caramelized apples = Win (well, basically anything caramelized = WIN!).  All of them seemed like a good dish, but they had me at “smoked salmon.”

They gave us free samples of a homemade sausage (not a sausage person, but didn’t want to be rude…and it as only a little) and then some chilled mussels in cream, and some Quinoi (a grain) salad. This was much appreciated because I was starving! Then the smoked salmon came. It was to DIE FOR! It was so fresh, not too salty, and not “fishy” or oily in the least bit. It was perfect in every way. The portions were generous, as well. The only bad thing was that it did end. Anyhow, it was served with a selection of fresh crusty wheat rolls and mini baguettes, which were soft and light. Accompanying the salmon was an herbed cheese of some sort, either crème fraiche or Fromage blanc, although it could have been mascarpone. This was to be the favorite dish of the Loire Valley. Next, the veal. We had no idea what to expect, for it said “carré” de vaux. Which means a cut of veal. It turned out to be a veal shank (we think) braised in brown gravy with parsnips. The meat was so tender and flavorful! And then dessert. Crepes with caramelized apples, caramel sauce drizzled on top and then a caramel ice cream. This was fantastic! I was too satisfied from the first two dishes to finish the dessert, but somehow found room for the complimentary hand made truffle, fruit Pate (gelatinized fruit preserve coated in sugar) and tiny almond brittle/Florentine cookie. This was most likely the best meal that we would encounter in the Loire region!

Despite the fact that the ten day forecast had predicted 65 degrees and raining, the weather was about 85 and sunny! We went to the gardens and the Chateau of Villandry, which was highly recommended to us by  our neighbor.  I must say that it greatly exceeded our expectations! The chateau, built on the ground on which a 12^th Century dungeon was located, was built in 1536 and underwent two major restoration processes. The first process got rid of many of the Gothic aspects of the grunds, transforming the dungeon into a studio.  There were other many attempts to transform the Gothic structure to more of a romantic renaissance piece. However, the second period of restoration was done by the Spanish Carvallo family, after being purchased in 1906.  It was during this second period of restoration that the Gardens, renaissance in their style, was revived.  There are several gardens:

1)                   Ornamental kitchen Garden, consisting of broad bean, red Japanese Cabbage (I’ve never seen cabbage look so beautiful), some sort of lettuce and then some sort of lettuce 

2)                   Herb Garden

3)                   Garden of Love, which has flowers arranged to symbolize four different types of love: tragic, passionate, adulterous and tender

4)                   Formal gardens, which are full of roses and poppies and such

5)                   Maze

*Please note that my father beat me to the a-MAZE-ing pun! And then my mother proceeded to tell me that we are two of a kind

*Please note that my lame puns are a product of my genetic makeup

 

After the wonderful tour of Villandry, we were super thirsty and grabbed some water, and watched a convoy of motor cycl-ists. I say that we watched (as opposed to glared) them because they weren’t on Harleys, therfor their  motor cycles were super super quiet…like quiter than an American car! Then we saw the CUTEST little car! It was teal and purple! Next, to the grocery store. 1^st one was closed, and the second was closing in 15. We got some water (since 20 oz of water at the hotel was 5 Euros!!!!) and then some diet soda! Diet Pepsi Max: Mint Mojito (so-so) and then Diet Coke with Orange (not to shabby!).  Also facewash, yogurt (which turned out to be fromage blanc, a bitter yogurt-like product, and then Chevre from the region (YUMMMMMMM!) For dinner we went to a place by our hotel, known has Pontifino. This was an experience. The waitstaff was super nice! They gave us an English translation of the Menu! And then they let me have a French one as well to see if I could work on some translations.  My eyes automatically went to seafood, after the waitress said that the seafood was really good and fresh.  I happened to notice a seafood platter consisting of Langosteens (kinda a cross between lobster and prawns in appearance, prawns, shrimp, whelks, winkles, and oysters. Someone behind me had ordered th platter, and my mom said that it looks amazing and that I should get it! It was not unreasonable in price, either! I asked her what Whelks and Winkles were, for they were not translated in the English version, and so we both assumed it was like a sardine or a small fish. Afterall the person who had ordered the plate seemed to have a nice veriety of prawns, and langosteens, oysters, and then a few little ciramic dishes containing some aoli and then something that looked like sardine or anchovie fillets so it can’t be bad! I love anchovies!

The deciding factor

“When will you have  whelks and Winkles again?” Asks Mom

So I get it.

Lessons Learned of the day:

            -Whelks and Winkles = snails…one kind is super big, the other super small.

            -Snails are super strong and fishy and well, not good. Maybe it is when they are served chilled.

            -Snails remain curly when cooked

                        Sublesson learned= remove suction cup from snails BEFORE eating

            -Langosteens are half head and half tail

            -Oysters are good, but best enjoyed in moderation. 6 is a rather excessive amount. At  least for a first time. Maybe it is just because they were raw.

            - Those little things that looked like anchovies were in fact, shrimp. Salad shrip. About an inch long…with head and antanea and legs included. So, again…another issue. Do I eat them whole? Do I  peel them?  I peel. They became too much trouble to eat.

*Cheese plate of 2 cheeses saves me yet again

Return to hotel and then Facebook, upload pics and such!

Arrival

( May 21st )

Paris Airport

Charles de Gaulle is sketch. No question. Honestly, it always feels kinda dirty. But customs rocks. No questions asked! They must know we don’t speak French.  Anyhow…their random bag checks…not cool. I must have seen 4 bags UNZIPPED! With luggage hanging out! Thankfully none of our luggage items were searched!

Rental car

Dear me. Rental cars. So, thankfully the reservations were made, and we got an upgrade to a VW Golf (green car). HOWEVER Hertz had no maps. Who has a car rental agency in an international airport but no maps? Seriously. That was NOT well thought out.  So, thankfully, the car company sharing the area, Eurocar, had maps…which the guy was hesitant to give us. And even then…they didn’t really tell us how to get out of the airport…much less WHICH direction we needed. Thankfully we brought our handy dandy GPS which was a LIFESAVER! (until about 3 hours later…but that’s coming).  Finally after a couple of wrong turns we are on our way.  Due to the fact that there is no one, but myself, who knows how to work the GPS, I am stuck with direction duty. Not fun with Jet-lag. But we make it to Orlean for lunch. Only one problem.  It’s not 12. So. We go like Everywhere…no where is open.  Not to mention we arrive on a holiday (the 6^th Thursday after Easter...the reason why had to rent a car at the airport and drive to Tours and not take a train and then rent a car…what are the odds that we would arrive on that national holiday?) Finally we grab some sandwhichs and eat them in the car. Yes. I ate a sandwhich on a mini baguette…

Back in the car…

As the title says back in the car. We saw some quaint areas! Not to mention a lovely view of a nuclear power plant that was entirely too close to civilization to be safe…

*queue lightning and downpour

By this time we are all wxhausted. And driving in the rain. We have about 45 miles till the next turn so I close my eyes. Then the “are we there yet syndrome sets in.” This will be one of the ongoing occurences throught the trip that tends to lead to an increase in irritation for the next 48 hour period.

“how many more miles till my next turn?” “35.” “What exit?” “Rue de XYZ” “Which one?” “XYZ” “how do you spell that?” “X-Y-Z?” “How many more miles?” “35” “35?” “yes, 35” “then how many more miles until the hotel?” “ let me check…45”

5 minutes later

“How many more miles?” “32” “32? “Really?” I’m sorry what was the  exit?” “XYZ” How is that spelled again? “XYZ.” And you said we had how many more miles till the hotel?” now we have…hang on…41.5”

7 minutes later

“how many more mile?” “26” “On XYZ?” “yup”

4 minutes later

How many miles left?” “22”

10 minutes later

Howmany miles? 15

5 minutes later

How many? 8

5 mins later

how many 3

1 minute later

how many?

2

1 minute later

What comes after the turn?

*repeat

*DISCLAIMER: Please note that it is extremely difficult to navigate in a foreign country, especially when they speak a different language entirely. Add no sleeo and endless roundabouts with one-lane roads and you must marvel at anyone’s ability to arrive anywhere by car! Therefore, please be aware that I am in no way criticizing my father’s driving ability…in fact he has some mad skills maneuvering in different conditions…especially since there was a manual stick shift!

 

So after a couple of hours of driving, we finally arrive to the destination as noted on the GPS. Now GPS are fantastic, we know this. However, they are only as good as those who use them. And well, lets just say that I fall under the category od those who are not that good at using them.  Appanently there is a town that bears the same name as the street on which our hotel is located. So we arrived to the town of Ballan Mire, not the street.  Finally we located the address on the GPS (There was no street number given to us so we had to find the street).  And then after another 20 minutes or so we arrived.

 

The hotel, La Domaine Tartinière, is an old Chateau that is located about 10 kilometers (6 miles)  away from Tours, a major city in the Loire Valley and is situated on 38 acres of land, which apparently leads down to the Indre River.  Tortinière was originally a rustic country manor with 2 turrets. In 1562, the Domaine belonged to Jean Forget de Villedieu, "Sire de La Tortinière", who was mayor of Tours in 1599. In 1638 the Compain family, a family of silk manufacturers, gain ownership of the chateau and keep it until the end of the XVIIth century. (Tours was at that time one of the silk producing cities)(http://www.tortiniere.com/HistoriqueUK.asp). 

"Custom has it that Charles Perrault (1628-1703) was inspired to write "Sleeping Beauty" while wandering in the park, although the Château of Rigny-Ussé is the setting of Sleeping Beauty(http://www.tortiniere.com/HistoriqueUK.asp).

This Château was inspired by Renaissance masterpieces like Azay-le-Rideau, and, at the same time, by the solid construction principles of XIXth century ( http://www.tortiniere.com/HistoriqueUK.asp)

Perhaps the most important historical fact about La Tortinière was the signature of the surrender of the town of Tours to the Germans during the 1870 war in the sitting-room decorated with lemon-tree furniture. During that war, in March 1871, Frederic Charles, who was the nephew of Guillaume Ist, and Frederic III King of Prussia and future Emperor of Germany came through La Tortinière.  ( http://www.tortiniere.com/HistoriqueUK.asp)

 There is a cute little restaurant with very nice waiters and an English version of the menu (WOOT!).  One of the best parts of the restaurant is the Cheese cart. Basically you get to choose all the cheese that you want for 11 Euros.  I took advantage of that. And as a consequence looked rather ridiculous. However, I was still hungry and my curiousity was hungrier.  They were great (although some of the cow cheeses were too strong for my liking…a bit salty and smelly, but not bad.  The local Chevre (goat) cheese was to DIE FOR! It was smooth with just a lite dusting of ash on the rind.  It essentially melted in your mouth.  I accompanied the cheese with a decaf coffee, which was more of a decaf espresso. Wonderful aroma and body, way too little in quantity (especially for the cost).  My Mom got a dessert consisting of some sort of wafer with I think some sort of mousse on it and then an amazing almond milk mousse/foam/fluff. This could be fun to try to duplicate at home.  Froth some eggwhites and then some almond milk, add some gelatine and sugar and let’s see how that goes! 

Planes, Trains and automobiles...minus trains

(May 20th)

Departure

As many of you know, and some of you may not, I am going to be in France for 6 and a half weeks for vacation and then a summer session at the language school in Tours (Institut Tourrain).  The classes will be about 5 weeks long. If only I knew WHAT on earth I will be doing and what classes I will take (there was a mandatory placement test that was to be completed by May 29^th … but as one would guess, the site doesn’t work…c’est la vie)

These past few weeks have been spent packing, running errands, and spending some high quality time with some even higher quality people! (Although there are a few that I was unable to really spend some time with, much to my dismay…I LOVE YOU GUYS AND WISH THAT THERE WAS A CHANCE TO SPEND SOME QUALITY TIME WITH YOU!!!)

I find it rather interesting that prior to a departure of some sort and for an extended period of time, relationships really flourish and sometimes departure seems a substantial amount more difficult.  In fact, it feels very strange to be leaving home and really genuinely going to miss so many people despite the fact that I will be super busy and in a new an exhilarating atmosphere.  To speak candidly, if I may do so…I am gonna miss you guys like crazy! I have been vacillating from one extreme to the other in terms of emotion.  I am torn between the thrill and excitement about my opportunity, and then those of whom I am going to be without for quite some time!

It has been rather hectic, and so I am sorry to those that I will have to see  only when I return.  But hey, at least this time I am gonna have some stories! WOOT!  (who knows what cultural and linguistic differences may bring!!!)

Speaking of language, the past two weeks and then the next week and a half will be rather…tedious…not only have I become the main French speaker in the family, I have become sort of a French tutor.  And by French tutor, I mean I have been ceaselessly asked by my mother, “Hannah…how do you say this?”  “What is the French word for this?” “What would I say if I want to say…”

In her defense, she  has never taken a French class in her life, and she has done so much to help her self!  She has gotten these little tapes that she listens to while she walks around the lake…and has been reading beginners guides to French and through the miracle of YouTube, she has done some lessons herself!  HOWEVER (yes… I am the queen of  exceptions…and excuses…but that’s another story) as a result of an extreme lack of familiarity of the French language…she yends to  question any slight deviation from things mentioned on her tapes or lessons….including punctuation.  (but who can blame?)ChateauJules

A typical conversation my go like this…

Mom: How would I ask the question “Do you want something?”

Hannah: Veux-tu quelque chose? (Veuh two kel-kuh shows?)

Mom: Really?  “Vuh tuh ke koo showze? That is not what the tape said.

Hannah: There are several ways to say it. The formal way is “Voulez-vous quelque-chose?” (voolay voo kel-kuh shows? )

Mom: That is not what the tape said. The tape said something with Est-ce que

Hannah: You mean “est-ce que vous voulez quelque chose?” It is just easier to do what I said.

Mom: But that’s not what the tape says. What did you say again? The tape used est-ce que.

Hannah: I said “Veux-tu quelque chose” or “Voulez-vous quelque-chose?”

Mom: But the tape used something different.

Hannah: I know but like I said there are several ways to say it.

Mom: But what did the tape say?

Hannah: I don’t know…I didn’t hear the tape

Mom: the Tape used est-ce que

Hannah: then it is probably “est-ce que vous voulez quelque chose?”

Mom: what was that?

Hannah: “est-ce que vous voulez quelque chose?”

Mom: Slower

Hannah: “est-ce que vous voulez quelque chose?”

Mom: “esS eh Kuh vooz VOO lay ke koo choze”

Hannah: Close enough. Good!

 

So, as it turns out, I shall become the queen of disclamers throughout this blogging process.

*disclamer: So, as it turns out, all the hard work of my mother has definitely paid off. She has made amazing process and has even ordered coffee! Yay! She has really done a great job! In fact! I have even had to ask HER some things about the menu! She does know her food terms and preparation vocab!

 

Plane

Hooray security.  I swear, it is the most anxiety provoking experience! Seriously.  Get ticket…ok…not too bad…but security…

First of all the line is usually full of people dreading what is ahead.  You need to take off shoes, juggle carry on luggage, purse, passport, boarding pass (which you need to keep out) and then you need to put all of your electroncs in a separate bin (which means you need to sort out all of your most expensive items, keep track of them, hope they don’t get fried, keep an eye on your other bags, all the while having people try to rush you through so that things are up to speed.  And that quart zip lock bag in which you need to put all of your liquids in…I mean I understand some liquids, but the last time I checked, lipstick is NOT liquid.  I mean…lipstick?  Is that really a threat to your safety and security?  Quite frankly, you need to watch out for instant coffee creamer than you do lipstick!  Thanks to the extremely informative series on TBS, Burn Notice, I’ve been informed that instant coffee creamer proves to be rather combustable. But you don’t see “please place all instant creamers in quart-sized Ziploc bag to be X-rayed separately.” 

Now that I have all of my 4 trays safely past the Xray machine with out further searching, I am off to the terminal…to wait.  Facebook?

Well, as for the wait, it was spent searching for an outlet that was not behind a vacant boarding gate desk.  (Something tells me that sitting there wouldn’t really bode too well with airport security…ESPECIALLY if they require my back of salad dressing and lipstick to be separately X-rayed).  So I FINALLY find an outlet…in a sketchy “hallway” loading to a service hallway storing construction materials. 

Boarding time

WTF??? So we have to fill out all this info about being in an area that has been exposed to Swine Flu at some point in time.  We had to fill out emergency contact and such and that we needed to contact the airport if Swine Flu Symptoms were present so that they can notify the other passengers. Not exactly what you want to see when getting on board a plane…especially a 7 hour and 45 minute flight.  And yes there was a couple with the masks…that was a tad unnerving.

Not too much to say for the flight. Yes Man was the movie that they showed, seats too small, one of the last rows, long. You know the deal.  Although they had coke Zero so all was well!

Blog 1 / PreFrance

Okay, so let’s see what the whole “blogging” thing is about.  It seems as though it is mostly found in the form of “Twitter” today, something in which I would prefer NOT to partake in…seeing as I have already spent a remarkable amount of time on Facebook.  In my defense, if you know me, you will also know that I tend to lead a life of insomnia.  This has party been a result of later classes and immense amounts of homework…and due the fact that I am anything BUT a morning person, I opt to stay up and work…after all, I am prone to stay up thinking about all of the work I did not yet complete

This is not to say; however, that these events are not unrelated...I have my suspicions

So…moral of the story…I will try the “original” blogging in which I can write something deeper and more meaningful than compilations of Facebook status length blurbs (I think they are called “Tweets”). 

I am an avid Facebooker, not a Twitterer(is this the name for someone who has an account for Twitter?) and one may utilize deductive logic (or common sense) to figure out that I am not a TwitFace.

*Please note that I mean NO offense WHATSOEVER to those of whom have subscribed to Twitter, in fact, I have been made aware that many very wonderful and respectable people are avid Twitterers, one of which happens to be my very own father (DEFINITELY a WTF moment at the dinner when that “came to the table”)

**Please note his Twitter account was out of sheer curiosity and he has assured us that he will delete the account

***He has yet to inform us whether or not he has canceled the account